Über traveler Betsy Schwartz is at it again. We've lost count of which # trip this is - she's done well over a century, almost rivalling Heinz Stücke. Here she explores an island quite accessible to most Americans - made even easier on a Friday!

MY CYCLING COMPANION, Lilly Ann Popken and I landed, with Bike Fridays in suitcase, at San Juan, Puerto Rico the end of March, 2006. Our two week plans included cycling around most of this warm sunny island (perimeter ~300 miles) and also spending a little time on Vieques Island, 6 miles off the far eastern coast of Puerto Rico.

To ensure we didn't run out of time, we headed to Vieques first as presently there is daily hi speed ferry service from San Juan to the island. Vieques Island housed the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps for many years while all kinds of bombardment techniques were practiced. Finally in 2003, after the unnecessary death of a small girl, the Puerto Ricans were successful in having the Navy removed. There are plans for development at some time in the future but for now it remains a beautiful island with a big mountain running from east to west right thru the middle. We arrived on Vieques, an island of 10,000 people, after spending a day in San Juan touring and preparing our bikes as well as adjusting to the 4 hour time change. We jumped on the ferry with the captain handing everyone a white paper bag with instructions to throw up inside the bag - not on the boat's floor!! The sea was very rough that morning and the captain really didn't want to take his beautiful clean ferry out with the chance of so much sea sickness. I just decided to sleep on the ferry and that way avoided getting sick.

Idyllic. Cycling on this tiny 21 mile long island is idyllic. There are lightly traveled coastal roads and fantastic, zero-traffic narrow roads that take you over the mountains. Perfect - except for the 20 to 23% grades. At one time, we both had to get off and push. However, once at the top there were fantastic roller coaster hills that were as fast and steep as an "E" ticket at Disney!

Bioluminescent bay. Vieques has a special tourist attraction: a bioluminescent bay. As that was the main reason for coming to this island, we quickly called the travel company and made plans to go on the 42 passenger electric boat that would take us safely into the Mosquito Bay, which has the highest concentration in the world of the tiny dynoflagellates which give off light. We jumped into the warm waters and splashed for 30 minutes under the brilliant stars in the clear night sky, marveling at all the light coming off the many splashing laughing bodies enjoying this spectacle.

TGIF ... You can't always work out all the plans before a trip. It was at Dorado we were to begin our tour. At San Juan Harbor we were able to convince the little local ferry to carry the bikes and us across the main harbor where we had thought it would be easy to find public transportation to get us out of this expansive capital city.

It was raining hard, and quite dark. No buses. Not even any taxis. Just one man, standing around. His job: tending the ferry terminal parking lot. He notices we are just standing there in the dark, in the rain, looking around. He offers to help us and suggests his small smashed up car. We accept, agree on a price, and once again praise the high tech Bike Friday Company, as we quickly fold and stuff our bikes into that tiny auto. He locks the car park, jumps in the driver's seat through the only door that opens, and we are OFF!

It's about the people. I think one of the things I so enjoy with my bicycle travels is just that - finding people willing to help when the need is there and chatting with them. I love it when they say things like this: "You're traveling on a bicycle? Why, no one does that here. The traffic is too terrible!!" We have heard that so many times. They absolutely cannot believe how we can cycle 30 - 50 miles day after day. Since there are no people on bicycles, the cars are not used to us, so are extremely polite and courteous, even stopping to allow us to cross the road. There is not the road rage that is ever present in the States. People are more laid back here, and don't drive so fast.

Puerto Rico in a nutshell. Puerto Rico is a beautiful island with fantastic beaches everywhere. The people are very bilingual and very friendly. As there are few touring cyclists, one feels really special receiving such praise for doing something so foreign to the locals. Accommodations are plentiful but not cheap, but there are no youth hostels. Hotels are friendly and helpful and happy to let you take your bike into your room. Food is plentiful. The island is 100 miles long and about 35 miles wide with an enormous selection of routes to take. If so inclined, one can take the very mountainous route through the backbone of the country. The small nearby islands of Vieques and Culebra are gorgeous, as well. I think it is a pleasurable touring destination especially if one has a limited amount of time. I would recommend Puerto Rico to anyone. So now, it's time to relax! The cycling is done! I might even have a pina colada tonight!!

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