*DESERT CAMP '09* "I'm your Huckleberry ..."

Tucson-Sonoita-Tombstone-Bisbee/Douglas-Benson-Tucson

DESPITE the recession, PACTOUR's "Bike Friday Week" – now famously known as the leisurely Tour of Historic Towns and Hotels - was once again a sellout success. Friday and non-Friday folk were drawn in equal proportions to its relatively luxe and lollygagging itinerary; registrations closed a little earlier this year when the smallest hotel (Sonoita Inn) filled. The result: a pleasantly manageable group of 36 riders including several alumni and newbies from as far north as ... Nova Scotia (it's in Canada, for readers way, way downunder).

Good morning, ultrapeople! There were even a few what I affectionately call "ultra" people – strong riders who like lotsa miles at a "smell the burning rubber" pace. Yet even they seemed happy to start at the obscenely laid-back hour of 9am, cruise the 53 mile daily average, and otherwise renew their wedding vows with partners – after all, they did vote with their discretionary dollars, didn't they?

My "ultrapeople" remark drew a roll of the eyes from Lon. "Bike Friday people are way more type A than ultrapeople," he insisted. How so? "They're up at the crack of dawn, at the truck before it opens, champing at the cleat ..."

Nevertheless, this, the easiest tour on PACTOUR's ultra-schedule, again proved to be the perfect way for all to wake up hibernating legs for the 2009 cycling season. 

The Great Fire of Wisconsin. It's a real credit to the PACTOUR principals, Lon Haldeman and Susan Notorangelo, that the show went on this year.  The Haldeman homestead in Wisconsin suffered a major fire immediately prior to the start of the 7-week camp series. 

"Fortunately we had most of the stuff packed in the vehicles," said Lon, who lost a van and chunk of his prized bike and trophy collection, including a newish Air Glide ("the handlebars melted") and even worse – his John Deere miniature tractor collection. Lon pointed to the the smoky residue on the Ti beam and handlebars of his trusty Air Friday which has made it through Costa Rica, Peru and many extreme trips - including the Mont Ventoux Challenge - a relatively modest claim considering he's done that feat on a single speed. "Actually, Christopher (daughter Rebecca's boyfriend) did it on the standard tikit with flat pedals and gym shoes." Holy helmet! See the video clips above for proof.

I presented Lon with a plastic windup toy combine harvester I found in the Bisbee museum as some consolation. Increasingly known for his outstanding charity projects in Peru and Africa, Lon is now planning a cross-Wisconsin bicycle tour for children who are burn survivors. Stand by ...and visit his blog at www.pactour.com

"That'll slow 'im down". A recession-adjusted Bike Friday staff contingent consisted of just two reps this year - a Customer Evangelist (moi) and tikit co-designer and ultracyclist Rob English, with his wife Misha.

"That'll slow him down," remarked Susan, as Rob whipped together the now-defunct Bike Friday DoubleDay tandem recumbent.  Famous last words -  the folding lawnchair built for two was seen pulling all levels of cyclist for most of the week, culminating in a 52 mp/h Mule Pass descent. In fact, Bobbi Kamil was seen hurtling down that descent at almost the same pace, on what is probably the most upright Bike Friday ever built (see photo this page).

"Didn't even touch the brakes," she grinned through chattering teeth as we struggled to draft her. She later revealed the origin of her fearlessness: "Use to be a downhill ski racer."

Yeah, Bobbi, but snow is uh, soft ...

I personally spent a fair chunk of the week in the slipstream the DoubleDay. Though I'm a seasoned solo tourer, I've come to relish high-speed drafting through open country – you not only cover more miles faster if you're lagging like I always am, the second-by-second attention required to stick on someone's wheel actually gives your brain something to do – because boredom can sap energy ...  Read the Gal's How to Do Centuries Not Manifesto.

"I'm your Huckleberry". As a Customer Evangelist I'm as fascinated by what people do off a Friday as when on it. This year a die-hard fan of the movie Tombstone, Steve Conley, was lovin' it as immersed himself in the movie fanophilia - the Universal Studios style re-enactment; Wyatt Earp costumery in the local fashion boutiques, the 3-D Historama; a sobering exhibit of the profitable but tragic lives of 'soiled doves' (prostitutes); and the movie characters themselves loitering in the street - which we all agreed was not a bad day job even out of a recession. Later, the choice of restaurant was a forgone decision for Steve - the Earps-alikes were in the Crystal Palace. 

"The real Tombstone movie," he said, picking up one of the many DVD versions of the film from a shelf. "The Kevin Costner one – not as good." When the theater MC at the Historama asked if anyone in the audience really believed the Hollywood version was historically correct, whose hand shot straight up?

Tombstone's main street must be the only one in the country where dirt is carefully spread over the paved surface to retain that wild west look. Vehicles including bicycles are not permitted – carbon fiber would simply spoil the ambiance ...

Two brothels in one trip?  Ken Wallace, famed owner of Bisbee's quirky collectible bike shop, the Bisbee Bicycle Brothel, upped the ante this year. Not only did he feature a wine and cheese (read: tequila and cheese) party, Lon got him to meet and greet us at the lunch truck with a candyfloss pink folder – a Pashley Moulton.

"Sir Alex was the inventor of the elastomer in the Mini Cooper," he offered. "I'm also considering a Bike Friday for touring," he said.

Wait, did we hear that right?

"I know many people who've owned four or five nice Italian bikes, bought a Bike Friday and before you know it, they've sold all the other bikes and that's all they ride," he said. Whether Lon coached him to say nice things for the camera we won't know, until we see Ken roll up next year to greet us on a candyfloss colored Bike Friday ...

Enjoy this movie clip of the Bisbee Bicycle Brothel from the Desert Camp '08 multimedia report.

Stopping to smell (and eat) the enchiladas. I believe the most mediocre bicycle ride can be saved by a good meal or at least, good rest stop snacks. PACTOUR's lunches are simple roadside affairs served from the truck that hit the fine details – organic salad leaves, rare roast beef, broccoli salad and some durn good bad stuff like Kettle Chips (not just Lays), canned peaches (nothing like fresh peaches but don't they remind you of being a kid?) and canned tapioca ("so satisfying" said last year's camp vets, Caroline and Eldon Linnebur. Video alert: The final movie shows them talking about their Alaskan Malamute hobby.

After doing this camp for several years we've managed to crosshair the one or one–and-a-half excellent restaurants in each town.

Here they are:

Tucson: Cafe Poca Cosa (45 min/10 mile bike ride or 45 min bus ride on the #6) – for the $15 Poca Cosa platter

Sonoita: Canela Bistro (right opposite Sonoita Inn), Grasslands Bakery Cafe (a block behind) – outstanding nouveau Southwest –would you expect anything less from the Cali-owners?

Tombstone: Crystal Palace or Longhorn – the massive Apple Cobbler at the Palace is a must

Bisbee: Santamaria (Fish tacos),  Grille, Highland Bakery Cafe (everything), Cafe Roca (never open when we want to eat there)

Benson: Palatianos (a bit of a hike back to the lights opposite Safeway) – stunning authentic mediterranean and well worth the walk.

"Now we can't tell who's who." I launched my latest, modest little enterprise at Desert Camp – my convertible Traffic Cone Bag.  I've used this device for 3 years and after numerous requests for a copy, finally had them mass produced.  No, it does not hold traffic cones – rather, it turns you into one. Before long several people had snapped up the handful I'd brought; Susan complained that the sag wagon could no longer tell if the bright orange dot in the distance was necessarily Lynette Chiang.

"It's like drafting!" So said Steve Reiss on joyriding the Double Day. The penultimate day, in Benson, proved to be a perfect place for test rides, with a just a parking lot to entertain us. The Days Inn is the only non-historic hotel of the tour, but does provide a pool and jacuzzi as a sweetener, and the excellent Palatiano's restaurant a couple of long blocks away.

"What's this all about?" said Gerhardt,  swinging his leg over Andrejs' Pocket Rocket Pro - the first time he'd ever laid eyes much less hands on a Bike Friday.  The verdict? "Hm. Good!"

"Wow, to get Gerhardt on a Bike Friday and say it's good – hot dog, it must be good!" remarked NWT owner Ginny Champion.

Several folks test rode Rob English's Speeding tikit, especially after hearing how it wowed the crowd in Philadelphia.

"I've been thinking about getting one - someday," said 3x Camp alumna Jireh, tooling around on the tikit. Well, Jireh, the road to someday leads to the town of nowhere  ...

All play and no work isn't a PACTOUR camp. PACTOUR events generally have a seminar component although that aspect is ramped down on more recreational tours, so people can make an informed choice between the jacuzzi and the whiteboard.  I showed my handlebar movies and talked about Bike Friday clubs, dealers and Friday Friendly Tour Companies; Rob English screened his crowd-wowing HPV feats offered tech tips on using a Bike Friday. He believes a BF Pocket Rocket was his best choice for moderate loaded touring even before he joined Bike Friday.

"A Pocket Rocket gives you a stiff rear triangle to hold panniers, yet the long seat mast dampens shock," he claims. 

See the videos above to find out more. 

Back at the Tucson hotel, the mood was bouyant – more and more people are staying a day longer to bond with other riders and catch old friends starting or finishing adjacent weeks. The hotel  staff know most of the riders by name, and the jar of just-baked chocolate chip cookies awaits us year after year ...

Thank you to PACTOUR, crew members Lon, Sue, Larry, Barb, Marty and everyone else for riding with the fold! Register now for next year (so we maintain a Bike Friday majority), or if you can't wait, see you at another Friday Friendly Tour Company event like PACTOUR's Wisconsin Camp in June, or with us in the Berkshires in September - for details on all departures, see the Bike Friday Event Calendar.