*TOUR REPORT* CYCLE OREGON: The Weekend

You never know who you might meet on Cycle Oregon, maybe the perfect-sized riding partner just around the next rest stop!

A personal review of this event by The Galfromdownunder, aka Lynette Chiang, Bike Friday World Traveler and author of The Handsomest Man in Cuba.

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"CYCLE OREGON XXII, that was the best ever."

"NO, 2001 was the best ever ..."

" I liked 1998. The best."

I had barely registered at the Champoeg picnic table before I overheard several people trading opinions on which particular Cycle Oregon was the funnest, hardest, coldest, hottest, wettest they'd ridden, sagged, supported or volunteered ...

What, you mean people do this gruelling, week-long, all-inclusive tour of Oregon's beauteous boonies more than once? Oui and si: it happens to be an inked-in annual vacation for a giant peloton of the 2000+ riders who sign up for the famous moving cycle-circus each year. Some have done it at least four or five in a row - and I am told an elite few have all 17 tours under their Camelbaks, starting way back in 1988 with Cycle Oregon I.

In a tango of two icons of Oregon local pride, Bike Friday dovetailed its biennial Homecoming with Cycle Oregon 2003, drawing almost 80 pairs of little wheels to the dramatic Hell's Canyon region of the state. Read about those folding frolics at www.bikefriday.com/bf/cycleoregon2003.

The idea of a Cycle Oregon 'lite' was floated after more than 15 years of successful week-long tours. It would be an introductory weekend edition of the 'full Monty' with 60-100+ mile days to stay true to the tour's challenging reputation. The varying formats over the years seem to suggest that it's a delicate balance between keeping the regulars happy while reaching out for new blood and sweat. Someone told me that some fast folks got upset when shorter rides were offered alongside the 100+ mile routes. I can never understand this attitude - no one's stopping nobody from taking the long way round - and you can always do the route twice if you feel you're not getting your money's worth. 'Cramping one's style' seems a little ridiculous when you're talking bicycles, no? (Aside: you want hardcore? Go do one of 6x RAAM champ Lon Haldeman's PACTOUR cross-country RAAM/PBP qualifiers and get back to me).

The Land at Eden's Gate: the 2005 Weekend

8am Saturday: a relaxed but efficient registration procedure under a picnic shelter at Champoeg State Park

Through the long, cold spring of 1843, almost 900 men, women and children gathered at the Missouri River and turned their eyes toward the West ... their destination was the Willamette Valley, the place they called The Land at Eden's Gate. Come see what all the fuss was about...

So began the evocative opener for the 2005 Weekend.

"Eden's gate" is, in fact, the new Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway, a state first. The Oregon Parks and Recreation Department officially opened the 136-mile route at 9am on the Saturday of the Weekend with a bicycle-chain-cutting ceremony courtesy of the Bike Gallery's Jay Graves.

From the Cycle Oregon Weekend webpage:

This 136-mile route linking two of America’s greatest bicycling cities, Portland and Eugene, will be permanently signed, maintained and marketed, to showcase the scenery, history, agriculture, architecture and communities of the Willamette Valley. Join us as we ride into history....

Getting There and Back

The ride began in the woods of Champoeg State Park, roughly 30 miles south of Portland, and finished in Coburg, near Eugene. I used the handy Cycle Oregon message board to secure several offers of a lift from Eugene to the start. Others got up there the night before and camped, but had to pack their own dinner and breakfast.

This was an 'open jaw' style of route, which meant that an array of trucks and buses waited at the end of the ride to transport riders back to their cars at the start. Cycle Oregon is conscious of making the route 'closed loop' where possible, but when the trade-off is a scenic and safe ride versus grappling with dull scenery or dirty and dangerous and traffic, the former wins out, no question about it. Well done Andrew Black, a veteren of five "Cycle Oregons", who turned around on the Monday and rode his Bike Friday 115 miles back to his car at Champoeg!

1200+ paid-up riders. The week-long Cycle Oregon attracted around 2300 riders when Bike Friday joined it for its biennial Homecoming in 2003. Although the Weekend accommodates 2000, I was glad for the camaraderie of the 'less enormous' group. Within two minutes I'd connected with a woman who'd read my book, Bike Friday owner Andrew Black from Portland (we're about the same height so that he found me was a feat) and Bike Friday Club of Tacoma, WA leader Max Welker on his regular bike ... but I won't hold that against him!

Day 1: Champoeg State Park to Monmouth (60 miles)

Some curious sights to behold like these well-behaved hop vines (corrected from 'grape' by Kurt)

The first 27 miles were Schwinn-cruiser flat and easy. I'd bet my Ortleib folding bowl that few people would bother training for a sagged weekend ride even if strongly advised to do so, so this section was a sensible warm-up. It began with a magical bike path alongside fields until we hit the road.

Terrific rest stop food. Both rest stop fuel and meals (lunch both days, dinner Saturday) were excellent. Road fuel consisted of fresh grapes, bananas, bagels, some palate-perplexing but thankfully organic fruit bars apparently developed by a Portland chef called Paley, and even cheesy Goldfish crackers. There was even V8 vegetable juice as an alternative to sodas, and potato chips. Of course we don't need potato chips in our diet but nothing tastes better that salty golden crunch on a long ride, right?

Blowout Lunch at Willamette Mission State Park. Now this is where gourmet cycling food is taken to the next level. As an event-ride vegetarian I was treated to a layered cheesy tomato vegetable bake, yams, a serious Mt St Helens of a potato salad, bread roll, a big cookie I trust was trans-fat free, an orange, a drink NOT sweetened by high fructose corn syrup ... and a shocking big hill around the corner unbeknownst to the masses.

Yes, you ate it all. Yes, you suffered on that hill.

This twisty hill, which hovered between 6 and 11% over about 2 miles, was preceded by a delightful 2 minute crossing of the Willamette River on the Wheatland Ferry and a deceptive 15-mile cruise to the base of the hill. Most riders had scarfed every last scrap of their gourmet lunch and two hours of languishing in the sun to the dulcet tones of a merry string band and a historical re-enactment of Methodist Mission history was too long - or not long enough, to process the carbs. Halfway up I was wishing I'd brought my other Bike Friday with the 3 chainrings instead of two. I stopped a couple of times to rest my burning quads - but what was the hurry anyway?

The only improvement I'd personally make to this stage of the event would be a large warning sign at the lunch table with a bike riding up the steep side of a wedge of cheese.

Just how scenic was this Bikeway? I've lived in Oregon for four years, so I tend to take the Northwest scenery for granted. For those who are more accustomed to long, straight roads disappearing to a vanishing point (as witnessed in the Bike Friday Arizona Desert Camp), the rollers of Oregon keep your brain entertained. It's the kind of scenery where you don't know what's around the bend; you crest a rise, stare straight across at distant snow covered peaks, teeter briefly above green fields spreading below in every direction, plunge down through the middle of it all at great speed, and next minute you're careening alongside a wooded riverbank or through a black chunky lava field for ten miles or more ... in a land of 100+ cable channels I can only surmise that this variety is partly what gets people back doing Cycle Oregon year after year.

A town called Independence. Another twelve easy miles after that arduous summit brought us to the town of Independence, graced by a brand new, sweeping amphitheater. The town had gone all out with an info booth and guided tours, but I saw riders lazing on the grass under the Florida-like sun.

Cycle Oregon is all about supporting the small towns it passes through, and the stop in Independence was designed for that purpose. By an unintentionally brilliant stroke of planning, this final rest stop was a mere 4 miles from the day's finish. This feature (which I admired in the annual Bike Friday Sutherlin Memorial Weekend Ride) has the psychological effect of riders ending up more refreshed than if they faced another twenty gruelling miles at day's end. A bit like the notion of leaving a party when you're having a good time.

"Sure I'll do a historic tour of the town zzzzzzz..."

Chocolate on the pillow. And if ever there was an example of attention to detail the gold chocolate coin, embossed with the Cycle Oregon logo on the dorm room pillow, takes the cake. The dorms, part of the Western Oregon University at Monmouth, were an option for those who did not want to bother with a tent for just one night. I was graciously offered the other half of a twin share by a Bike Friday owner. Ranging from $20-$50, they were better than most of the bedrooms I continue to rent (isn't it time I grew up and got my own place?). I admired the furniture layout which ensured you were unable to see your roomie while sleeping or studying.

What other affordable bike tour gives you chocolates on your pillow? I said AFFORDABLE!

Another nice touch was the Cycle Oregon-branded soap and conditioning shampoo, and the two towels per person for drying body and hair separately, right gals?

The campers had a nice, dry grassy pitching area near the dorms. At first I wondered why the entertainment was sited a few blocks away, but realized the excellent logic - a good night's sleep. The cacophany of the evening's entertainment followed by the generators blaring away most of the night on Cycle Oregon 2003 makes me wonder if they've solved that problem for the upcoming week-long event. Knowing Jerry, I am sure they have.

Gourmet sit-down dinner. I am not sure if future Weekenders will always be fed and watered in a facility like a University food court but it was cushy to say the least. Lasagne/Beef Brisket, pasta salad, two kinds of bread roll, cheesecake with a local topping and good drinks ... with plastic flatware that was actually silver in color. I understand Cycle Oregon are trying to think of ways to minimise disposeable equipment. I know, they'll get everyone to wash up! There was plenty of time to digest it all as the evening's announcements in the park did not start until 8.30pm.

Nightly entertainment. To their credit, the Cycle Oregon folks seek diversity - two years ago I danced to a fine bluegrass duo in Halfway in 2003 (and I wish I could remember the band so I can buy their CD), and on this Weekend we heard a band of fiddlers, a pop group and a Latino quintet. Tonight was a 3-girl-2 guy outfit from Portland called Dirty Martini. Apparently a few guys report that they "fell in love that night" - all part of the Cycle Oregon all-inclusive deal!

I moved to the front to check out the faces in the crowd and most looked ready for bed. I would think a mini film fest in a tent off to one side would be a nice non-music entertainment option, then again, I like making cycling movies!

Day 2: Monmouth to Coburg (75 miles)

A downhill - very welcome after That Hill.

Aaah, the beauty of not having to take down your tent in the rain. Breakfast in the University food court consisted of a full hot and cold spread with soy milk available - very Oregon.

Today's riding was a series of easy rollers passing through Albany all the way to ye olde Thompson's Mill, 45 miles down the road. Actually, Andrew and I both veered right and almost missed the lunch stop which was straight ahead. The pink markers did have the arrows on the other side, but when you're head's-down and going (or drafting in my case) at 20 mph, you sometimes miss the fine details. The volunteers on Cycle Oregon were plentiful, always waving, smiling and pointing you in the right direction.

A lighter lunch by ye olde Thompson's Mill. Our salad wraps, salsa cups and other goodies came with a fabulous backing track performed by a Latino quintet, double bass, bongos, you name it. Fantastic, Cycle Oregon! This lighter lunch would have been a better choice for the Saturday and That Humungous Hill, but perhaps they wanted to impress us up front ... see the photo gallery for more food and ye olde Mill shots of this historic site.

Still life with tofu wrap (already eaten) at Thompson's Mill

Blowing through Brownsville. It's a shame the tour stopped 10 miles past this town, one of the quaintest, most interesting little places on the route. There is a tendency for people on bikes to barrel right through stops they haven't paid for, like the little local lemonade stands and the like. One corner restaurant did stay open a few hours longer and we did see lycra jerseys lounging in the chairs sipping beers.

"A phalanx of Phridays". The following will be of interest to the Bike Friday contingent: I spotted the following Friday folk: BF's Ruthy Kanagy (Crusoe), BF's Kurt Christensen (Pocket Rocket Pro), Andrew Black (Air Friday, Portland), Dan and Jeannie McKenzie (Two'sDay, Eugene), Wayne and Claudia Baum (Crusoes, Salem, OR), Sharon Ewing-Fix (Longview, WA), a mysterious blue Two'sDay and no sign all weekend of BikeJournal overseer, Slo Jo Recumbo! Yes, we got bailed up at rest stops with the #1 question: Don't you have to pedal more? I always reply that if you did, I doubt Bike Friday would sell a single one. I certainly wouldn't be riding one. If you don't believe us, here's the 9-tooth secret.

One lane isn't quite wide enough for me to get Dan McKenzie's head AND his 20" wheel in the photo!

Grand finale in Coburg!

The last 10 miles were a windy pull - that is, Dan and Jeannie McKenzie from Eugene pulled brilliantly on their purple Bike Friday tandem. I was expecting a giant pay-as-you-eat gourmet no-host barbecue rather than a small hotdog stand but maybe they didn't want us loitering around til dark, due to that need to drive the entire circus back to the Champoeg State Park.

Bike Friday Head of Japan Sales & Support, Ruthy Kanagy crossed the line on her Pocket Crusoe. A year ago she was being passed by everyone. Now, she was doing the 'on your left's'!

Read about Bike Friday Homecoming on Cycle Oregon 2003

Copyright 2005 Lynette Chiang, www.galfromdownunder.com All rights reserved

Andrew Black pulled me along for most of the weekend - then turned around Monday and rode 115 miles back to his car at Champoeg State Park. Read more about Andrew.

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STOP PRESS! Slo Jo Recumbo just surfaced ...

"You were spot on about the towns. I spent a good half hour in each of the "pass through" exploring and talking to some folks. Maybe because they pay for the rest stop, but it seems to make more sense to have the town "host" a rest or lunch stop and lower the price. I was told by the locals that the little corner cafe in Brownsville is the place to go for good food. [And that's where I saw riders loitering as I blew past - dang! LC]. No commentary on the scenery or low traffic roads? Also, how would you rate this as a "Scenic Bikeway"? [The scenery was Oregonian - I have clearly been here too long! As I said, it's a personal take. I'd rate the Crater Lake or Eastern Oregon (Snake River) scenery as more stunning - this was just niiiicccee weekend riding - LC]

Reason for the no Slo Joe sighting: I made each day a century ride, so I left very early in the morning. Looks like you were with the later day saints. The only BF guy I saw was Kurt Christensen. He remembered me from last summer. I hardly ever eat solid food on a bike ride so no stopping at the lunch or rest stops. If I eat solid food I have "lunch legs" for hours. I use SPIZ. for my lunch and food stops. BUT, I did stop at every kid's lemonade or food stand along the way. I figured if they were energetic enough to get out there and work, the least I could do was to contribute to the local economy. Plus, there were some really good cookies!

Did you catch the kid's bike rodeo by the river at the amphitheatre? Oh ... I also had an incredible root beer float on that corner fountain place in Independence ... see ya in a few weeks. Going to come down for a lunch ride just for the funnit me thinks.

Slo

Emailable link to this article: http://www.bikefriday.com/bf/cycleoregonwkd2005

For more information, follow this link http://www.cycleoregon.com.